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FOOD & DRINK

GaultMillau food guide names best chefs of the year in Switzerland

Franck Giovannini and Virginie Basselot have been named the best male and female 'chef of the year' 2018 by the Swiss edition of the prestigious GaultMillau restaurant guide.

GaultMillau food guide names best chefs of the year in Switzerland
Franck Giovannini. Photo: GaultMillau
Swiss chef Giovannini won the prize for his cooking at the world-renowned Hôtel de Ville de Crissier, near Lausanne, which has 19 out of 20 points in the GaultMillau guide and three Michelin stars. 
 
The 43-year-old was the right hand man of previous head chef Benoît Violier, and took over the kitchen after Violier’s shock suicide in early 2016 shortly after the restaurant was named best in the world by La Liste.
 
Giovannini becomes the restaurant’s fourth head chef in a row to win the ‘chef of the year’ accolade from GaultMillau, after Frédy Girardet, Philippe Rochat and Violier before him.
 
In a statement, GaultMillau editor in chief Urs Heller said Giovannini “could have simplified his life and rested on the laurels of the past”. But instead “he works twice as hard to remain on a successful path and does it with panache”.
 
Speaking in a video on the guide’s website, Giovannini said “the aim wasn’t to succeed Benoît [Violier]. We were friends, we were around the same age, the idea was to continue together.
 
“To be named ‘chef of the year’ by GaultMillau is nearly unfathomable,” he said.
 
Virginie Basselot. Photo: GaultMillau
 
Basselot, named female chef of the year, is the executive chef at the Loti restaurant in La Réserve hotel in Geneva.
 
From Normandy in France, Basselot is one of only two female chef to have obtained the prestigious title ‘Meilleur ouvrier de France’, the gold star of the French food industry, said GaultMillau.
 
Also recognized in this year’s GaultMillau guide was Julien Duvernay from the Stücki restaurant in Basel, who was named pastry chef of the year.
 
Three others chefs – Sven Wassmer, Franck Reynaud and Simon Apothéloz – were named most promising of the year.
 
More than 800 restaurants were visited by 45 inspectors for this year’s Swiss edition, which includes 85 new entries.
 

OPINION & ANALYSIS

Will Switzerland be able to feed itself in the future?

Amid a worsening climate crisis and an increasingly unstable world food system, Clare O’Dea looks at what Switzerland and its population need to do to ensure there is enough food on the table in the years to come.

Will Switzerland be able to feed itself in the future?

Faced with a growing global population, the climate crisis and increasingly degraded agricultural land, the challenge of how to feed the world in the near future is one of the burning issues of the day. 

Russia’s invasion of Ukraine has created a multitude of additional food security problems, contributing to already rising global food prices and rising input costs for agriculture, such as energy and fertilisers. 

Meanwhile, Switzerland’s food self-sufficiency rate is relatively low for Europe at around 50 per cent. The government’s new agriculture strategy for 2050 has set the seemingly modest goal of maintaining that level.

The 79-page strategy document, like most such publications, does not look beyond 2050. But this is just the point when climate change and increasing demand for food are expected to intensify.

Should we be alarmed?

One thing the Covid-19 pandemic showed was that not all countries are equally affected by a global crisis. Money is usually the main protection against disaster, but leadership, preparedness, and the ability and willingness to respond quickly are also important. 

For domestic food production over the next two to three decades, hope still rests on two main pillars – boosting productivity in a sustainable way, and changing consumer behaviour. There’s not much else that can be done. 

EXPLAINED: Why Switzerland’s inflation has rate stayed low compared to elsewhere?

The bad news is that the Swiss population is not eating a well-balanced diet and the average intake of calories is too high.

People are not eating enough dairy products, pulses, fruit and vegetables and consuming too much meat, sweet things and alcohol. 

We all know this.

But did you know how harmful this love affair with our stomachs is? The strategy document spells it out: “The environmental impact of consumption could be halved if people adopted a healthy diet, based on the nutritional recommendations.”

With a different portfolio of food grown in Switzerland corresponding to a healthier diet, the self-sufficiency rate would increase too. Consumer behaviour is changing but not radically or quickly enough. It’s hard to see the harm being reduced without enforced measures of some kind. 

READ MORE: Seven products that are becoming more expensive in Switzerland

Another crying shame of our food system and lifestyle is that a third of the food produced by farmers ends up being wasted between field and fork. All that energy, money and ecological impact for nothing. 

Although food self-sufficiency carries its own risks – vulnerability to local shocks, extra pressure on the environment – being too reliant on imports is not ideal. Overall, the EU is a net food exporter. But the Swiss government has made it clear that Switzerland will continue to rely significantly on imports for the foreseeable future. 

One simple reason is the limited availability of agricultural land. Currently 36 per cent of Switzerland’s land surface is given over to agricultural production and pasture. Farmers have to compete with growing urbanisation and, of course, the non-negotiable presence of the mountains that cover 60 per cent of the land’s surface.

During the Covid-19 pandemic we saw that money can, up to a point, buy you health. Switzerland nabbed so many of the globally available vaccines that it has had to donate or destroy surplus. Money can also buy you food, and this, along with proximity to supply, puts Switzerland is a rather secure position. 

In fact, Switzerland came fifth out of 113 countries in the Global Food Security Index which considers the issues of food affordability, availability and quality, as well as natural resource and resilience. By which we could conclude that everything is under control. 

The victims of this year’s global food crisis – the 323 million people who will become acutely food insecure, according to the UN – live in the countries that routinely appear at the bottom of such indexes. 

Nevertheless, according to the Swiss agricultural research body Agroscope, we should not feel a false sense of security. Apart from dependence on foreign countries and climate change, power supply is one of the key threats to Swiss food supply. 

In its latest annual assessment of threats to food supply, Agroscope wrote that the probability of and the potential damage from a serious power shortage are particularly high compared to other risks. “Supplies of vital foodstuffs would be massively affected, the effects would be manifold, and would not be overcome quickly.”

If the worst comes to the worst, Switzerland stockpiles compulsory stocks of essential goods for bridging in case of crisis and shortages. Mandatory storage facilities around the country hold three to four months’ worth of basic foodstuffs like sugar, rice, cooking oils, cereals and animal feed. 

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Is that reassuring? Three months doesn’t feel like a lot.

These stocks are only released when the economy itself is no longer able to satisfy demand. In any case, Agroscope says “household emergency stocks are of great importance”.

I don’t know about you, but I’m off to the supermarket.

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